Names: Porter’s City Tavern & Frazier’s Bistro
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Ratings: 4 and 4.5 stars, respectively

I wouldn’t say I was devoted to the husband and wife team behind Porter’s and Frazier’s… but numbers don’t lie. Apparently, I’ve been to Frazier’s twice in the last year, and to Porter’s at least three times more. That’s a lot of dining dollars, and once you’ve had the opportunity to visit one of these establishments, you’ll understand why I’ve continued to return in the face of so many other dining options.

Kevin and Stacy Jennings started Frazier’s in 1998, and it has perpetually been on the list of local foodie haunts. Following their success, they opened Porter’s practically next-door in 2003. They recently left the comforts of Hillsborough street for North Hills with their new upscale-Italian establishment, Vivace, which I will review at a later date.

Porter’s. Porter’s is perhaps an ideal restaurant: great ambiance, excellent food, reasonable prices. It’s also family friendly if you dine early – our toddler has been to Porter’s twice with great success. The design of the space is stylish, with a sleek bar area, attractive patio, and a dining room that welcomes and creates a rare feeling of privacy in a crowd. And it can get crowded. On a weekend night, Porter’s gets packed, so plan to dine early, get a reservation, or expect a long wait.

The food at Porter’s tastes like “special occasion” food, but isn’t priced that way or gussied-up too much. The tavern chips are a great example. Home-made tortilla chips with a variety of succulent toppings, they are so good one person could easily clean a plate of these by themselves…but that’s not advised since even when split by two grownups, the portions are quite filling. I recommend splitting the tavern chips three ways, or at least showing some restraint (which I’m never able to do). I’m particularly fond of the Southwestern chips, with shrimp, smoked corn, and black bean puree. To my disappointment, Porter’s has scaled back their tavern chip offerings from their original menu. A notable former selection included delicious crawfish tails. Still, the Southwestern version is great, an opinion supported by my daughter who thought they were the best part of the meal.

Two appetizers offered practically everywhere but executed particularly well at Porter’s are the fried calamari and the seared tuna. The calamari is coated in a light batter and served with a yummy Asian-style sweet-n-spicy sauce. I had the seared tuna one night when craving sushi, and was not disappointed at the quality or presentation of the dish. Yes, Japanese-inspired fare at an American Tavern is odd, but Porter’s kitchen pulls it off. Similarly, Porter’s offers the obligatory Caesar salad but includes fried oysters on top, adding a festive treat to a once-grand salad that has unfortunately become boring from its constant presence on menus.

In terms of main dishes, the burgers at Porter’s are excellent. Fish tacos are also a highlight. The smoked chicken ravioli makes me swoon, the steaks are ideal, the lamb shank is fantastic, and the roasted chicken is practically perfect. Unfortunately, I have to admit that I have yet to sample any of Porter’s desserts, as I’ve usually filled up on tavern chips.

Perhaps the essence of Porter’s (and the talent of executive chef David Mitchell) is taking the “standards” and doing an excellent job of preparing, plating and serving them in a way that doesn’t make them feel “standard.” I’ve never had a bad experience at Porter’s, and can recommend it without hesitation.

Fraizer’s is Porter’s more-refined big brother, and provides a fine-dining experience that’s hard to beat. Long and thin, you are drawn into the space by warm earth tones and strategic use of lighting. Tables are fairly close together, making private conversation difficult, but creating a feel more urban than typically found in the Triangle area. My favorite design feature is the massive letter “F” behind the bar that cleverly doubles as a shelf for liquor bottles.

With any fine-dining experience, the little things really make a difference. At Frazier’s, there were two surprises on my first visit that I greatly anticipated for my second: a complimentary amuse-bouche to start and mignardises at the end. Amuse-bouche can be translated as “happy mouth,” and is a small bite of food served at the very beginning of the meal ostensibly to stimulate the appetite, but is more effective at making a guest happy and excited about the forthcoming meal. This is a frequent practice of five-star restaurants world-wide, but not often replicated at establishments lacking the flagrant prices. Much to my delight, Chef Jay Beaver, who hails from venerable culinary institutions in New York such as Gramercy Tavern and Café Boulud, has instituted this practice at Frazier’s. On my first visit, the amuse-bouche was prosciutto wrapped asparagus with chervil vinaigrette. Delicious and fun at the same time. The second visit, the amuse-bouche was a spoonful of chilled tomato consume with a dollop of tomato-infused olive oil. Also delightful. Mignardises is the French word for the little sweets (usually chocolates) that follow dessert. On both visits I was served small shortbread cookies as the final taste upon departure. I love this practice, as it adds so much to the enjoyment of the dining experience.

Frazer’s shines in every course, and “strange-meats,” as one of my friends is apt to call them, are a Frazier’s strong point. Strange-meat items include a delectable foie gras with cherries, Earl Grey tea sauce and Macadamia nuts, steak tartar with just the right amount of horseradish, and pappardelle pasta with melt in your mouth veal cheeks and crispy sweetbreads.

Less polarizing dishes include a creamy, chilled cucumber soup with lobster chunks and orzo pasta to provide texture, and crab ‘fondue’ with a lightly dilled puree of peas and pea shoots, both of which were vibrant and refreshing. Stunning entrees include swordfish over pillowy gnocchi and a red wine and lobster reduction, lamb two ways-seared and braised-with rosemary demiglace, and roasted chicken with creamy polenta and golden raisin sauce in a Mediterranean style. Perhaps the only misstep I experienced at Frazier’s was the surprise of the spiciness of the roasted chicken dish. I love spicy food, but there was no indication from the menu or the wait-staff that the chicken would have such a high heat content. No problem for me, but it could have been an issue for a more sensitive patron.

Finally, I experienced a dessert at Frazier’s so unique and delicious, it caused the patrons at the table next to ours to interrupt us and exclaim “What on EARTH are you eating??!”… the dessert in question featured freshly made churros with Mexican hot chocolate dipping sauce. A churro is a Mexican doughnut, usually spiral, long and thin and coated in cinnamon sugar. Mexican chocolate contains cinnamon as well. So, yes, we were dipping doughnuts in cinnamon-y hot cocoa as our dessert in a gourmet restaurant… and it was awesome. I love it when chefs let you play with your food. I’m afraid it’s not on the menu at the time of this writing, but hopefully Chef Beaver will bring it back when the weather becomes cool again.

In sum, Porter’s and Frazier’s are both excellent restaurants. I think Porter’s is better for children, although if your child is well behaved, Frazier’s would likely welcome their attendance. While I have not taken my toddler to Frazier’s, on both of my visits there were well-behaved children in the 4-6 year-old range eating at tables near by. My suggestion would be to choose Porter’s for a special family night (dining early) and Frazier’s for date night.
Details:

Porter’s City Tavern
2412 Hillsborough Street
Raleigh, NC 27607
919-821-2133
http://www.porterstavern.com

Genre: American Tavern / Comfort
Pricing: Entrees $14 – $24
Rating: 4 stars

Frazier’s Bistro
2418 Hillsborough Street
Raleigh, NC 27607
919-828-6699
http://www.fraziersbistro.com

Genre: Contemporary American
Pricing: Entrees $18 – $25
Rating: 4.5 stars

Ratings Guide:

· 5 stars: Superlative. The best of the best.
· 4 stars: Excellent. Something to eagerly anticipate.
· 3 stars: Good. Solid and dependable.
· 2 stars: Fair. Barely tolerable.
· 1 star: Poor.
· 0 stars: Awful.

Argyle Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (Oregon). Usually easy to find and always a delight to drink. Typically smooth with great fruit presence that pairs well with food or drinkable on its own. (If you’re in one of the 21 states that allows you to purchase wine directly from out-of-state wineries, buy the Willamette Valley Pinot for $20 a bottle.)

Saintsbury Pinot Noir Carneros Garnet (California). Typically creamier and spicier than the Argyle, the Saintsbury Garnets tend to be a “larger” wine but nicely balanced as well. Visit the Saintsbury Winery for more information.

There was a time when merlot was HOT! Everybody was drinking it. Then, practically overnight, vintners chasing the hype veered dramatically from the true nature of the varietal, creating watered-down, limp versions of arguably one of the world’s greatest grapes. Merlot has since taken a beating. After a one-two punch from the wine-snob community in the late 90s and early 00s, merlot was just getting to its feet when along came a bruiser named “Sideways” that gave it smack so hard, merlot’s mama felt it. Is merlot down for the count? I hosted a party recently with the intention of finding out…

Why so much vitriol for a grape that makes up some of the most expensive and sought-after wines in the world? I have steered away from merlot because many of the bottles I’ve sampled in my preferred $10-15 price range have been nearly devoid of personality. My hope was a bakers-dozen of merlots would reveal whether my choices have just been unlucky, or if merlot really is something to avoid. My party guests had instructions to bring a bottle of merlot, although some brought more than one. A couple of zingers were present in the collection, including one bottle from Napa that retailed at nearly $60, one bottle that retails for only $7, and one box wine disguised as a normal bottle (an empty in the recycling bin was cleaned thoroughly and filled with the box wine).

The tasting was conducted blind with each bottle wrapped in a brown bag and labeled with a letter. Each person received three votes with which to identify their three favorites after tasting (not ranked, no double votes allowed), and a time was set by which everyone had to place a vote. I arranged the voting in such a simple way because it’s not easy to get detailed information from a horde of parents away from their kids who have just “tasted” thirteen different wines.

I’ve listed the results below, some of which were surprising. I was confident the expensive bottle of Napa Valley Pride would win, as its complexity and mouth feel belie its merlot title – in fact, I would describe it as an elegant cabernet sauvignon. However, I think many of the tasters were turned off by its size, since most merlots are more delicate in structure. Another surprise was the wine that tied for first place – Red Dragon. This was a significantly polarizing wine, drawing attention to the drastic differences that can exist between individual pallets. (As a former science geek, I wonder if this difference can be explained, at least in part, by genetic differences.) Many people described the Red Dragon as salty, dilute, and, to at least one taster: “gross.” Others, me included, thought it was lovely. One of my guests, when they saw me cast my vote, said: “you actually like that? What’s WRONG with you?” The answer to that question goes in a self-help column, but I thought the Red Dragon was nicely balanced, fruity, with a clean finish. To each their own.

A huge shock was the third-place finish of the Canyon Road. I nearly voted for this bottle myself. It’s an unassuming wine with a great balance of fruit and tannin. My notes said “enough personality to keep you interested but not overwhelm you.” When was the last time you spent so little on a bottle of wine and had such nice things to say? Talk about a bargain!

The box wine fared less well but still received a vote. The voter was so thrilled, I heard she bought a box on the way home from the tasting. At the very least, this proves that a person should buy what they like, regardless of price or snobbery.

So, like the protagonist of Sideways, should you leave a party if merlot is served? In a word: no. However, finding a good merlot seems significantly harder than for other varietals. I hosted a tasting similar to this one last year focusing on syrah/shiraz, and the results were much different. Nearly every syrah was appreciated by the tasters, and even the lower-ranked wines most tasters agreed were quite fine. Such was not the case for the merlots – several of these wines were particularly week and disappointing. But the reasonably priced stars (Ronchidi, Garrison McBride) were stunning, and I have yet to find a cheap wine as good as the Canyon Road.

It would seem merlot took the punch from Sideways, perhaps somewhat deserved, but is back on its feet and taunting its opponents. In fact, merlot is mad as H-E-double-toothpick, and isn’t going to take it anymore… see for yourself: www.merlotfightsback.com

Tied for 1st place

• Ronchi di Manzano Merlot 2003Tasting Votes: Five CIUG Rating: 4 stars Price: $19 Origin: Italy

  Fruity noise, smooth tannins – a beautiful wine. Research revealed that this wine is produced from vines originating in Bordeaux, France, which explains at least part of its balance and appeal. One of my three votes.

• Red Dragon Merlot 2003Tasting Votes: Five CIUG Rating: 3.5 stars Price: $11 Origin: USA

  Medium weight, with good balance. Many described this wine as salty, but I didn’t pick up on that. I thought it was nice. Clean finish. Elicited some very strong opinions – the Tasters either loved it or hated it. One of my three votes.

Tied for 2nd place

• Pride Napa Valley Merlot 2001Tasting Votes: Four CIUG Rating: 4 stars Price: $55 Origin: USA

  Big, gorgeous, large tannins, more oak than in a normal merlot. Spicy with a gigantic, long finish. More like a cabernet than a merlot. One of my three votes.

• Garrison McBride Merlot 2003Tasting Votes: Four CIUG Rating: 3.5 stars Price: $12 Origin: USA

  Good fruit, nice body – a classic merlot. One of my favorites, but not quite a pick.

Tied for 3rd place

• Canyon Road Merlot 2003Tasting Votes: Three CIUG Rating: 3.5 stars Price: $7 Origin: USA

  Very nice balance of fruit and tannin. An easy drinker and enough personality to keep you interested but not overwhelm you. The Taster who brought this surprise purchased it on sale for only $4!

• Concha y Toro Peumo Marqués de Casa Concha Merlot 2003Tasting Votes: Three CIUG Rating: 3 stars Price: $16 Origin: Chile

  Needs decanting – it opened up after a while in the glass, revealing medium fruit and some herbaciousness with a light finish. Reminiscent of Riojas.
  

Others receiving votes

• Kenwood Sonoma Valley Merlot 2003Tasting Votes: Two CIUG Rating: 3 stars Price: $17 Origin: USA

  Good, perhaps a classic merlot style – forward fruit with smooth tannins and a decent finish. Not bad, not great.

• Decker Napa Valley Merlot 1999Tasting Votes: Two CIUG Rating: 3 stars Price: $19 Origin: USA

  Very light. Some described it as “elegant” although I personally felt it was just weak.

• Burgess Cellars Merlot 2003Tasting Votes: One CIUG Rating: 2.5 stars Price: $23 Origin: USA

  A bit dilute, but decent oomph on the end. Certainly not worth the price.

• Banrock Station Merlot 2003 (box wine!)Tasting Votes: One CIUG Rating: 2.5 stars Price: $6 Origin: Australia

  It was fine, inoffensive, but lacked any real personality. Price is per box of 1.5 liters (two bottles), so the equivalent price per bottle would be only $3!
  

No votes

• Salmon Harbor Columbia Valley Merlot 2003
  Tasting Votes: None CIUG Rating: 2.5 stars Price: $8 Origin: USA
  Good nose, nice tannins but a weak ending.

• Viña La Rosa Cachapoal Valley La Capitana Merlot 2004
  Tasting Votes: None CIUG Rating: 2 stars Price: $14 Origin: Chile
  It was funky – not spoiled, just funky. The funk overwhelmed the fruit.
• Cuvee Bordeaux 1998
  Tasting Votes: None CIUG Rating: Zero stars Price: $25 Origin: France
  What a disappointment. I was excited to have a French Bordeaux in this tasting, and had high expectations. It was awful, one of the worst wines I’ve ever had without it being spoiled. Dilute and horrible. I didn’t even write down the Chateau I was so disgusted.

Ratings Guide:

• 5 stars: Superlative. The best of the best.
• 4 stars: Excellent. Something to eagerly anticipate.
• 3 stars: Good. Solid and dependable.
• 2 stars: Mediocre. Barely tolerable.
• 1 star: Yuck.

About Ian Mehr
Ian lives with his wife and two-year-old daughter in Raleigh, NC. Frequent admonitions of “Chew it up good!” to his toddler inspired the title to Ian’s periodic column on food, wine and travel. Ian can be reached at chewitupgood@mindspring.com.

Having trouble figuring out what to have for dinner? Break the meal into three parts: meat, starch, vegetable.

Usually I have one of each on hand, either fresh or frozen. I keep several meats (e.g. chicken breasts, pork tenderloin, fish fillets, etc) in the freezer along with frozen veggies for just these types of instances.

For example, make the starch (e.g. couscous – cooks in 5 minutes!), saute a chicken breast, steam some frozen broccoli with a sliver of butter and salt and a tablespoon of H20 in a covered bowl in the microwave, and make a quick pan sauce out of the drippings from the chicken using broth or wine.

Place the chicken on the couscous, cover with the pan sauce, put the broccoli on the side, and voila – a quick, easy, vaguely-fancy weeknight meal that didn’t require a trip to the grocery store!

Medical science recommends one-to-two glasses of wine each day for heart health… ain’t science great? While I love high quality, expensive wines as much as the next foodie, I can’t responsibly drop $30+ on a bottle of “weeknight” wine. Instead, I seek out inexpensive but appealing wines that I can open whenever I feel like it, and not worry about obsessing over the nose, the pairing, or whether all of it will get consumed before it starts to loose its flavor in a day or two.

I’ve listed below five wines that are very good, even excellent, but at a cost structure that makes them amenable to opening on an ordinary night. Most wine stores will offer a discount on purchases of a case of wine, which is twelve identical bottles. Some grocery stores even offer discounts on purchases of six bottles. A reasonably priced wine can become downright cheap when purchased by the case and discounted by 5-20%. Even if you can’t readily find the wines I list below, I encourage you to randomly try some inexpensive wines and make note of those you particularly like. I find the best places for this experimentation are at local wine shops, as they usually offer free tastings on weekends. If I find a wine I like, I’ll buy a bottle, try it out, and if I like it enough, I might go back and buy a case to get a discount. That way, I can have them convenient to – ahem – “keep my heart healthy.”

Baroja Rioja “Seleccion” 2004

• Rating: 3.5 stars
• Price: ~$10
• Origin: Spain

I love Spanish wine, but have been somewhat miffed by its increase in price recently thanks to growing popularity of the region. Fortunately, there are still bargains to be had. A good weeknight wine should be a chameleon: agreeable by itself and enough body to pair with food, but not so much that it is tiring to drink. This Rioja, made from the tempranillo grape, is composed, yet assertive; food-friendly, yet good on its own. It is a charming wine, one that immediately upon trying I could picture many nights of casual social interactions with my friends. A value at its retail, a steal by the case.

Turner and Cole “Adelaide Hills” Pinot Noir 2004

• Rating: 4 stars
• Price: ~$17
• Origin: Australia

Although the movie “Sideways” has spoiled the market for cheap Pinot – like Rioja, its hard to find a good but inexpensive Pinot anymore – Turner & Cole bucks the trend. The clarity of this wine is not great, which gave me pause upon first pour, but trepidation dissipated upon tasting. This is quite possibly the best wine I’ve had for the money. Done in the lighter style of reds from the Burgundy region of France, this wine exhibits balance and grace like none other I’ve recently tasted. Surprisingly, this wine hails from Australia, a continent known more for shiraz than for pinot noir. Supple and clean with delicious fruit, Turner & Cole makes most California pinots look heavy handed and clumsy.

Bedford Road Sauvignon Blanc 2004

• Rating: 4 stars
• Price: ~$15
• Origin: New Zealand

Upon tasting the Bedford Road sauvignon blanc, my wife stated: “Don’t buy any other whites from now on!” Some of you may have heard of the legendary Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc. In a blind tasting, this Bedford Road was preferred over the Cloudy Bay, yet is less than half the retail price! Many whites can be boring and one dimensional, but the Bedford Road sauv blanc combines a smooth drinkability with a crisp, mineral depth that I have not found elsewhere. Undeniably one of the best wines I’ve had, yet at a price that makes it reasonable for a weeknight. Who could ask for anything more? Well, rumor has it the 2005 will be even better…

Decker Chardonnay 2004

• Rating: 3.5 stars
• Price: ~$10
• Origin: California

California chardonnay has had its share of ups and downs. Loved and loathed for its stereotypical big, buttery, oaky style, it has existed in an underappreciated state for several years. Decker’s ’04 is a great example of what California chardonnays should aspire to achieve. Deft, but with enough mouth-feel to let you know that oak was involved, and acid to make it quaffable on its own. Citrus and tropical fruit show up, but don’t overwhelm buttery, toasty notes, and vice versa. Since ideally a chef should serve the same wine that is used in his or her recipes, this is my default wine when my cooking requires a white because its flavors lend beautifully to a plurality of dishes, and it serves as an impressive and pleasurable accompaniment as well.

Soracco Moscato d’Asti 2004

• Rating: 3.5 stars
• Price: ~$15
• Origin: Italy

When I first had a Moscato d’Asti, I had no idea what was in store: a lightly sweet, fruit forward, effervescent delight that has held a place in my cellar ever since. From the Asti region of Italy, vintners take muscat grapes and create a wine with a smattering of bubbles. I’m not a fan of syrupy desert wines, but the fizz of the d’Asti cuts the sweetness and makes this wine a joy to drink. I find Moscato d’Asti fitting as either an aperitif or a dessert wine, and quite enjoyable on its own, particularly on a hot night with cicadas singing in the background. One particular asset for their weeknight applicability is their low alcohol content, which is usually less than half as much as a typical wine. Moscato d’Asti always makes me smile, and Soracco’s version is one of my perennial favorites.

Name: Spice Street
Location: Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Rating: 2 and ½ stars

I really wanted to like Spice Street. Perhaps because it has such great ambiance; perhaps because it is one of Giorgios Bakatsias’s restaurants which are usually excellent; perhaps because I like cooking with a lot of spices and the name speaks to me. Regardless, I had high hopes and left disappointed.

Spice Street is not particularly welcoming from the outside, existing as it does in an aging strip-mall. However, upon entry there is no denying you have arrived someplace special. The entire establishment is done in a pan-Asian style, and you are greeted by an enormous painting of a topless Goddess sprinkling spices unto a Chef’s creation – is this what Foodies mean when they talk about “food porn?” To the left is a small café area and sushi bar, to the right a beautiful bar area. Behind the bar is the dining room, and the décor is nothing short of striking, with dark wood tables and lighting elements that resemble massive down-turned horns.
My companions and I began our visit at the bar for an aperitif. In hind-sight, perhaps we should have stayed there. Our bartender was attentive, knowledgeable, and we were collectively impressed with the quality of wines by the glass and the selection of gourmet beers. The pinot noir and Chimay beer were served in their appropriate glasses, and the cosmo and vodka martinis were among the best I have sampled in the Triangle area. Our bartender also helped guide us on our menu choices, comparing and contrasting dishes.

Everything unraveled when we moved to our table. We were seated smack in the middle of the enormous dining room, and nearly every table around us was full of people who appeared to be having a great time. Slowly I noticed things were amiss: no one brought us water or menus; our waiter was nowhere to be seen; tables all around us were complaining to their wait staff, receiving food out of sequence or to the wrong person, incorrectly, or at only half the table. During the twenty minutes we waited for someone to notice us, I witnessed three tables send food back to the kitchen.

When we finally flagged someone down and ordered another round of drinks, it was a vastly different experience than we had moments before at the bar. We ordered another glass of the same pinot noir, but received a different red served in a white wine glass. Furthermore, it was filled to the rim – a practice usually seen only at chain restaurants serving white zin. The next gourmet beer ordered, a Duvel, was also not served in the proper glass, a similar faux pas to the wine.

Things did not improve when the food arrived. For an appetizer, I had the tuna tartar, which was one of the worst items I’ve ever been served in a restaurant. The tuna itself was excellent, but it was plated atop an onion relish overwhelmed with dill weed and smeared atop with dill cream cheese. I found it to be a vile combination. My companions each had the soup special, a so-called “Spanish Onion Soup.” It was tasty, but turned out to be French onion soup with a couple of soggy tortilla chips and cilantro on top: a weak effort at best.

The entrees also left much to be desired. I ordered “Spicy Lemongrass Shrimp, Lobster & Fish Broth with Thai Noodles,” which was not spicy, had very few shrimp, and the lobster was only used to make the stock. Despite the title, the dish contained a plethora of fish, mussels, and calamari, although it was overcooked resulting in the unique components tasting the same but with different textures. It was an altogether misrepresented and poorly executed dish.
My companions fared somewhat better. The lamb shank was tender and flavorful, although ordering did cause our waiter to abruptly dash back to the kitchen to see if one was still available. The seared ahi tuna had a nice flavor, although was undercooked based on the order of “done medium,” and had a dull pallor that made its plate look somehow sad. Fortunately, the fish of the day, a halibut prepared with beurre blanc and served with jasmine rice, was quite good.

Needless to say, we were disappointed in our experience at Spice Street. It is unfortunate that I do not have the opportunity to visit restaurants multiple times to draw my judgments (I self-fund all my dining), as I would like to determine if this was just an off-night for Spice Street. Upon speaking with others who have dined there multiple times, it would appear that inconsistency is consistent, so to speak. I do believe that on a good night, Spice Street could be a wonderful place to dine… but on a night like we had, disappointment will be the result.

Details:
Spice Street
201 South Estes Drive (in University Mall)
Chapel Hill, NC 27514
919-928-8200
http://ghgrestaurants.com/spice/spicestreet.html

Genre: Fusion of Asian and Mediterranean
Pricing: Entrees $14 – $28
Rating: 2 and ½ stars

Ratings Guide:
5 stars: Superlative. The best of the best.
4 stars: Excellent. Something to eagerly anticipate.
3 stars: Good. Solid and dependable.
2 stars: Mediocre. Barely tolerable.
1 star: Yuck.