Just in Case: Wines to Have on Hand

Medical science recommends one-to-two glasses of wine each day for heart health… ain’t science great? While I love high quality, expensive wines as much as the next foodie, I can’t responsibly drop $30+ on a bottle of “weeknight” wine. Instead, I seek out inexpensive but appealing wines that I can open whenever I feel like it, and not worry about obsessing over the nose, the pairing, or whether all of it will get consumed before it starts to loose its flavor in a day or two.

I’ve listed below five wines that are very good, even excellent, but at a cost structure that makes them amenable to opening on an ordinary night. Most wine stores will offer a discount on purchases of a case of wine, which is twelve identical bottles. Some grocery stores even offer discounts on purchases of six bottles. A reasonably priced wine can become downright cheap when purchased by the case and discounted by 5-20%. Even if you can’t readily find the wines I list below, I encourage you to randomly try some inexpensive wines and make note of those you particularly like. I find the best places for this experimentation are at local wine shops, as they usually offer free tastings on weekends. If I find a wine I like, I’ll buy a bottle, try it out, and if I like it enough, I might go back and buy a case to get a discount. That way, I can have them convenient to – ahem – “keep my heart healthy.”

Baroja Rioja “Seleccion” 2004

• Rating: 3.5 stars
• Price: ~$10
• Origin: Spain

I love Spanish wine, but have been somewhat miffed by its increase in price recently thanks to growing popularity of the region. Fortunately, there are still bargains to be had. A good weeknight wine should be a chameleon: agreeable by itself and enough body to pair with food, but not so much that it is tiring to drink. This Rioja, made from the tempranillo grape, is composed, yet assertive; food-friendly, yet good on its own. It is a charming wine, one that immediately upon trying I could picture many nights of casual social interactions with my friends. A value at its retail, a steal by the case.

Turner and Cole “Adelaide Hills” Pinot Noir 2004

• Rating: 4 stars
• Price: ~$17
• Origin: Australia

Although the movie “Sideways” has spoiled the market for cheap Pinot – like Rioja, its hard to find a good but inexpensive Pinot anymore – Turner & Cole bucks the trend. The clarity of this wine is not great, which gave me pause upon first pour, but trepidation dissipated upon tasting. This is quite possibly the best wine I’ve had for the money. Done in the lighter style of reds from the Burgundy region of France, this wine exhibits balance and grace like none other I’ve recently tasted. Surprisingly, this wine hails from Australia, a continent known more for shiraz than for pinot noir. Supple and clean with delicious fruit, Turner & Cole makes most California pinots look heavy handed and clumsy.

Bedford Road Sauvignon Blanc 2004

• Rating: 4 stars
• Price: ~$15
• Origin: New Zealand

Upon tasting the Bedford Road sauvignon blanc, my wife stated: “Don’t buy any other whites from now on!” Some of you may have heard of the legendary Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc. In a blind tasting, this Bedford Road was preferred over the Cloudy Bay, yet is less than half the retail price! Many whites can be boring and one dimensional, but the Bedford Road sauv blanc combines a smooth drinkability with a crisp, mineral depth that I have not found elsewhere. Undeniably one of the best wines I’ve had, yet at a price that makes it reasonable for a weeknight. Who could ask for anything more? Well, rumor has it the 2005 will be even better…

Decker Chardonnay 2004

• Rating: 3.5 stars
• Price: ~$10
• Origin: California

California chardonnay has had its share of ups and downs. Loved and loathed for its stereotypical big, buttery, oaky style, it has existed in an underappreciated state for several years. Decker’s ’04 is a great example of what California chardonnays should aspire to achieve. Deft, but with enough mouth-feel to let you know that oak was involved, and acid to make it quaffable on its own. Citrus and tropical fruit show up, but don’t overwhelm buttery, toasty notes, and vice versa. Since ideally a chef should serve the same wine that is used in his or her recipes, this is my default wine when my cooking requires a white because its flavors lend beautifully to a plurality of dishes, and it serves as an impressive and pleasurable accompaniment as well.

Soracco Moscato d’Asti 2004

• Rating: 3.5 stars
• Price: ~$15
• Origin: Italy

When I first had a Moscato d’Asti, I had no idea what was in store: a lightly sweet, fruit forward, effervescent delight that has held a place in my cellar ever since. From the Asti region of Italy, vintners take muscat grapes and create a wine with a smattering of bubbles. I’m not a fan of syrupy desert wines, but the fizz of the d’Asti cuts the sweetness and makes this wine a joy to drink. I find Moscato d’Asti fitting as either an aperitif or a dessert wine, and quite enjoyable on its own, particularly on a hot night with cicadas singing in the background. One particular asset for their weeknight applicability is their low alcohol content, which is usually less than half as much as a typical wine. Moscato d’Asti always makes me smile, and Soracco’s version is one of my perennial favorites.